Pretoria

So one of the things I didn't expect about moving back to Africa was how different South Africa of 2011 is from Zambia of 1987 - and probably because I didn't really think it through. Zambia of 1987 was a pretty poor country (and from my visits in 1997 and 1998, and from what I hear - it still is) South Africa of 2011 is much more modern and developed. South Africa is actually part of the Group of 20 (which is meeting right now), the twenty largest economies. This is actually a little misleading, because the European Union is considered as one economy, and several countries that are in the group (including South Africa) would not be there if the European countries were counted as individuals, but South Africa is there - and its' wealth is pretty evident, especially here in Pretoria. The city is the largest one I've lived in since I was in high school in the suburbs of Dallas, and so far I have managed to stay off of the super highways and out of the rush hour traffic jams that any resident of Dallas, Atlanta or just about any big city in the US would recognize. And that is what is so different - it feels so much like being in the states, that the occasional moment when I realize I am in Africa is almost a pleasant surprise.

I have managed to avoid traffic jams by finding a nice, small house to rent about 5 minutes from the office. its a longer commute than I've had in 7 or 8 years, but it's not too bad.

Downtown Pretoria - "The Jacaranda City"

 My neighborhood is the older, wealthy, close-to-town neighborhood that one often finds in cities - it would be a candidate for being a protected historic district if it were in the US, but there is not any interest in that sort of thing here - mainly because of security. And that is what is really different here - although South Africa has a growing economy with a growing middle class, there is still a huge gap between the haves and the have-nots, with a large crime rate that one would expect with such a gap. The "haves" as a result, lock themselves behind security fences and burglar bars, with electric fences on top and motion sensors inside and outside the houses, and security "armed response" agencies only an alarm or phone call away. As a new resident here, first you are a little shocked at what seems to be paranoia, then you begin to feel pretty insecure and the paranoia starts to feel justified.

A photo from my neighborhood

The security consciousness doesn't end there - car-jacking became pretty popular a few years ago, and although the numbers have fallen, and are decreasing every year, everyone warns you about it and you have to worry, especially after dark, as you drive around. In addition, every shopping center has gates and you have to pay for parking, or there is an informal system of "parking guards" who help you park and then look after your car for you as you shop. In fact - the parking guards are about the only thing that reminds me of Zambia.

Enough about security - it is really on my mind right now because I am at this moment waiting for the security company to come and fix the sensor on my front door. My landlord re-painted the house before I moved in, and the painter accidentally pulled a wire out, and I wasn't able to fix it myself. 

Another street scene from the Internet

As you can see from the photos, this city has some amazing Jacaranda trees that line the streets and bloom in   October - November. the blooms are constantly falling off the trees and forming this "purple snow" carpet on the ground - and when you are walking under them it really does feel like they are snowing on you. I have to wipe the purple flowers off of Rosie before she can come into the house after one of our walks. It's really beautiful - and the closest thing to it I have ever seen are the old live oaks in the South Carolina Low Country, only these are purple. The other 2 big differences that I notice especially on my walks with Rosie is that the birds are big and loud, and there is one type that is even aggressive. Rosie tried to chase one of those one day, and instead of flying away, scared, it took to the air and started swooping at Rosie (and me) like a dive bomber. Rosie was pretty freaked out, but fortunately, it never got closer than about 10 feet (although that was close enough!). The other difference is that there are no squirrels here - I haven't taken the time to check why, but it is strange to walk Rosie and not have her want to run off after a squirrel.

That's it for this post. I am actually starting to understand my new job and make a contribution - the learning curve has been big, but I have been enjoying the challenge. I am looking forward to travelling to Ghana later this month, and Malawi in January, and I am also looking forward to my sons coming over in December.